Saturday, July 25, 2015

Mt Gillen, NT, Australia


2015 July: Climb Mt Gillen near Alice Springs, NT, NSW, Australia

Prolog

Three years ago, when Ricky, Jeremy and I flew into Alice Springs in NT (Northern Territory) to climb Mt Zeil, we had planned to climb Mt Gillen as well. For one reason and another, Ricky and I went to Ormiston Gorge instead ... see my blog:
http://mntviews.blogspot.com.au/2012/07/ormiston-gorge-nt-australia.html

Ormiston Gorge is a fascinating place, so no regrets there. But still, I missed Mt Gillen. Hence this trip with David to NT's red centre is for Mt Gillen, and a few other places that I missed going to three years ago.

Mt Gillen

- Located near Alice Springs, in the Macdonnell Ranges.

- 944 meters high

- 340 meters in elevation from the trailhead at Flynn's Grave to the summit.

- By car from Alice Springs city centre to Flynn's Grave carpark is 6.5 km; 10 minutes drive.

- Although it only takes about an hour to walk to the summit, the trail is steep, with a short section of bare hand vertical rock climb. Hence it is not for the unfit nor for the faint-hearted. But the 360 panoramic view from the top is well worth the effort.

- Not many people outside of Alice Springs are aware of this little gem. If you are visiting or passing through Alice Springs, you really must must and must make the 2-hour round trip to climb Mt Gillen !

Map

Our route is in brown.  (To enlarge the map, click on it.)

GPS tracklog

The GPX tracklog file of our climb can be downloaded from:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B877-h5SCJaSUmlNY211MUd2ZGc/view?usp=sharing

Timeline & Distance

12:18  0.0 km  Start at Flynn's Grave carpark
13:11  2.2 km  At the bottom of vertical cliff

Climb to top of vertical cliff
Admire scenery

13:15  2.2 km  Resume walking
13:32  2.6 km  At Mt Gillen summit

Lunch

14:18  3.0 km  Leave summit
14:34  3.5 km  At top of vertical cliff

Wait for 2 woman to climb up
Then we climb down

14:46  3.5 km  Resume walking
15:38  5.7 km  At Flynn's Grave

==============================================

Total:  3 hrs 20 mins  at leisurely pace.
           Excluding lunch, 2 hours should be sufficient for most people.
           5.7 km  Distance is from Google Earth
           6.5 km  Distance is from Garmin GPS

Pictures

1)  Flynn's Grave carpark, trailhead for the Mt Gillen climb ~~~
- Our hired car is the red Hyundai.
- There are more cars than I had expected. Considering the small size of Alice Springs, almost everyone of their residents are here  :-)


2)  Still at Flynn's Grave carpark ~~~
The red arrow points to Flynn's Grave.
Who is John Flynn? Here is an extract from: http://www.nt.gov.au/westmacs/places/flynns-grave

"For Outback Australians the Reverend John Flynn is an iconic figure. Working as a church minister in Central Australia a century ago, Flynn gained an understanding of the vast distances and special needs that outback living entailed. Aspects of daily life that city people took for granted, such as communication and basic medical services, were often unavailable to residents of remote areas. Illnesses and injuries that would be quickly dealt with in a town, could prove fatal in the Outback. Flynn's tireless lobbying of church and government authorities brought about significant reform, including the establishment of what we now know as the Royal Flying Doctor Service. This pioneering service gave the men and women of the interior what Flynn called a 'Mantle of Safety', and, just as importantly, a firm sense that their needs mattered. Flynn's Grave therefore stands not just as a memorial to a man, but to the ideals of bridging the gap between urban and Outback Australians."


3)  This is Flynn's Grave.
- The red arrow points to Mt Gillen summit.
- Where we will climb up the mountain is behind the cliff pointed to by the yellow arrow.


4)  From where Flynn's Grave is, go west for about 75 meters and you will come this gate.
It is the first time I encounter this type of gate ... seems to be designed to allow a bike to go through but not a motorbike.


5)  On our way to climb Mt Gillen ~~~
- The red arrow points to the summit. You can just make out a white dot at where the summit is ... it is the pane of the top of the summit trig. (The colour of the pane is actually black. As it is made of metal, from a distance, the reflection makes the pane look white.)
- The yellow arrow on the right points to where the path leads to. Behind the cliff there is where we'll be climbing up the mountain.


6)  Closer to Mt Gillen - it is a steep climb.
Again, you can just make out a white dot which is the pane of the top of the summit trig.


7)  Half way up the slope, we can see Alice Springs spreading out below.


8)  Further up the slope ~~~
- Alice Springs is on the right.
- The desert is quite green ... global warming seems to be bringing more rain to central Australia.


9)  This handsome looking cliff is where the yellow arrow was pointing to in Photo #5. We'll go around it (to the right). Where we'll climb up to the top of the cliff is behind it.


10)  Going around to the right of the cliff of the previous photo


The below photo is taken at the same spot as where the previous photo was taken.

11)  A long line of cliffs to the right of the previous photo.
- The left red arrow points to where we'll climb up the cliff.
- The right arrow points to Mt Conway near Standley Chasm. I have not climbed Mt Conway, but love to do it one day.


12)  Many people are climbing Mt Gillen ... here are 2 of them.
- The red arrow is where we'll climb up the cliff.


13)  This gap is where we'll climb up the cliff.


14)  David, my climbing companion for this trip, is starting the climb.


15)  It is vertical ! If you are afraid of height, Mt Gillen is not for you.


16)  View from half way up the cliff ~~~
The red arrow points to Mt Conway.


17)  These two are very happy to have climbed up to here  :-)  It is not easy.
As I've already mentioned, it is a surprise so many people are here to climb Mt Gillen ... I would have thought the bare hand climbing up the vertical cliff would deter many people from coming here.


18)  From the top of the cliff looking down the gap through which we climbed up ~~~
In the middle of the pic, you can see 2 more people on their way to climb Mt Gillen.


19)  This is the cliff by the side of the gap through which we have just climbed up.


20)  180 degree view from the same spot where the previous photo was taken.
- The red arrow on the left points to Mt Conway.
- The blue arrow on the right is where we'll walk towards the summit.


21)  Walking along the top of the cliffs to Mt Gillen summit, the red arrow.


22)  Very close to the summit now


23)  Almost there


24)  David and I make it to Mt Gillen summit, 944 meters.


25)  To appreciate the next set of 6 photos, take a look at Google Earth tilted satellite view of Mt Gillen. (Click on map to enlarge it.) ~~~
- Our GPS tracklog is in turquoise colour.
- Alice Springs and its suburbs are at the lower part of the pic.
- The Macdonnell Ranges runs diagonally across the pic, from east (bottom left-hand corner) to west (top right quadrant).
- The red arrow points to Heavitree Gap (Ntaripe in the Arrernte language). The Todd River cuts through it. The Gap is also the southern entrance to Alice Springs with main road and rail access to and from the south.
Heavitree Gap was a sacred site to the Arrernte aborigines and was thus avoided by them ... until white men arrived and bulldozed a main road and railway through it.

The Todd River is not showing up in blue because the river is always dry ... Alice Springs is in the middle of a desert.

If we have two cars, we could have done a car shuffle. Park one car at Heavitree Gap, another car at Flynn's Grave. Climb up Mt Gillen the way we just did. Then walk along the ridge top all the way to Heavitree Gap ... it would definitely be an interesting walk !

26)  Needless to say, the 360 panoramic view from the summit is fantastic.
- From the summit looking towards the east, ie towards Heavitree Gap, we can see the Macdonnell Ranges extending all the way to the Gap ... refer to the previous pic.
- Alice Springs is spread out on the left side of the pic (north side of the Macdonnell Ranges).


27)  Zooming in on the Macdonnell Ranges to the east of the summit.


28)  Towards the south-east are waste stabilization ponds - a great place to watch birds as the ponds attract many species which are otherwise quite hard to find in central Australia.


29)  Still at Mt Gillen summit ... now towards the west, towards where we climbed up the cliffs.
- You can see the Macdonnell Ranges extending towards the west, red arrow on the left; as well as on the horizon on the right side of the pic.
- The red arrow on the right points to Mt Conway.


30)  Another view of the magnificent cliffs of the Macdonnell Ranges ~~~
- You can see the Macdonnell Ranges extending towards the west, red arrow on the left; as well as on the horizon on the right side of the pic.
- The red arrow on the right points to Mt Conway.
- The yellow arrow points to where we climbed vertical up the cliff earlier on.


31)  Zooming in on the right side of the previous photo ~~~
- The Macdonnell Ranges extends towards the west, red arrow on the left; as well as on the horizon on the right edge of the pic.
- The red arrow on the right points to Mt Conway. The more I look at Mt Conway, the more I love it. One day, I'll return to climb it. Contact me if you wish to join in.


32)  Near the summit are plenty of these Solanum ellipticum, also known as Native Tomato, Potato Bush or Wild Gooseberry. Its fruit have a pungent smell, and the plant can be smelled from some distance away when the fruit are ripe.

I hope you enjoy reading this blog as much as I enjoy the climb. The Alice Springs tourism authorities do not seem to promote the climb to Mt Gillen. So I'm doing their job to promote it here. If you are visiting or passing through Alice Springs, you really must must and must climb Mt Gillen !


Friday, July 3, 2015

Bleichert Ropeway, NSW Blue Mts, Australia


2015 July: Day trip to explore collapsed cable of Bleichert Ropeway in Pitts Amphitheatre near Katoomba, NSW Blue Mountains, Australia

Bleichert Ropeway

Bleichert Ropeway was an aerial cable used to haul oil shale from the Ruined Castle mine to Katoomba.

Oil shale, or torbanite, is a black stony rock (Photo #15). It was used initially for heating. By 1850, techniques were developed to distil a new kind of oil from torbanite that rivalled whale and tallow oils for lamp lighting. With imports of American kerosene oil fetching a high price, large-scale mining of oil shale, which was in abundance in the Blue Mountains region, commenced.

In March 1889, the Bleichert Ropeway was officially opened, hauling an average of 80 tons of oil shale per day. However in June 1889, the main ropeway had given way, delaying the hauling operation for a day or so. It was an ominous foreshadowing of the subsequent events ... in August 1889, faults in the cable carrying loaded skips had developed. And by January 1890, the inbound track rope to the mine broke, causing the aerial ropeway to collapse; and it was abandoned forever. In total, the ropeway was in operation for only 9 months !

The ruins of the the Bleichert Ropeway now lie in a straight line in a valley called the Pitts Amphitheatre - between Katoomba and Ruined Castle. Many of the metal and timber parts remain as they were fallen due to the fact that they are large and heavy, and therefore not readily movable nor easily souvenired.

A 2014 survey report on the relics lying in the Pitts Amphitheatre, as well as an account on the history of the Bleichert Ropeway can be downloaded from:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B877-h5SCJaSbVB6SkVHQ001d0U/view?usp=sharing

Maps

•  1:100,000 scaled 8930 Katoomba
•  1:50,000 scaled Blue Mountains South by Spatial Visions Innovation, 1st edition
•  1:25,000 scaled 8930-1S Katoomba  and  8930-2N Jamison

The below map is 1:25,000 scaled. Oue route, the brown circuit, is superimposed on it.

Today's trip - Explore along fallen cable of Bleichert Ropeway

Refer to the brown circuit route of the above map:
Four of us (Nick, Freda, Mei Ha and me)
- Start near Scenic World, at carpark opposite kiosk at Cliff Drive, Katoomba (top right hand corner).
- Go down Furber Steps to the Scenic Railway bottom station.
- 550 meters from the bottom station, on the track towards Ruined Castle, we come to a fallen cable of the Bleichert Ropeway ... see Photo #9.
- Follow the fallen cable into Pitts Amphitheatre.
- Return trip is via the Ruined Castle Track.

GPS tracklog file

Our GPX tracklog file can be downloaded from:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B877-h5SCJaSVlltZHpYVWdYVVU/view?usp=sharing

Timeline & Distance

09:26   0.0 km  Start near Scenic World, at carpark opposite kiosk at Cliff Drive, Katoomba
09:48   0.9 km  At the bottom of Furber Steps
09:51   1.0 km  At Scenic Railway bottom station
10:05   1.6 km  At fallen cable of Bleichert Ropeway

10:11   1.7 km  Leave track and start bushbashing down slope
11:56   3.0 km  Cross Causeway Creek
12:41   3.7 km  Stop for lunch

Lunch

13:06   3.7 km  Resume walking
13:49   4.7 km  At Ruined Castle Track

Explore around

14:01   4.8 km  Resume walking
14:50   8.2 km  At Rennies Tunnel

We are not sure we are at Rennies Tunnel, so we explore around up and down the track.

15:32   9.8 km  At Rennies Tunnel

15:35   9.8 km  Leave Rennies Tunnel
16:14  11.2 km  At fallen cable of Bleichert Ropeway
16:25  11.7 km  At Scenic Railway bottom station

16.28  11.7 km  Leave Scenic Railway bottom station
16:30  11.9 km  At the bottom of Furber Steps
16:52  12.9 km  Finish

==============================================

Total:  7 hrs 26 mins  at leisurely pace
           12.9 km  Distance is from Google Earth
           15.0 km  Distance is from Garmin GPS

Pictures

1)  A small waterfall - less than 200 meters into our walk ~~~
We are heading to the Furber Steps.


2)  Katoomba Falls from Queen Victoria Lookout (along Furber Steps)


3)  The 4 of us: Freda, Nick, Mei Ha and me at Queen Victoria Lookout (along Furber Steps) ~~~
The Three Sisters formation is in the background.


4)  At Furber Lookout (along Furber Steps) ~~~
- The Three Sisters formation is on the left.
- Mt Solitary, the long mountain range, is on the right.
- In the middle is Jamison Valley through which Kedumba River flows.


5)  Mei Ha walking down Furber Steps


6)  At the bottom of Furber Steps is the Scenic Railway bottom station.
The Scenic Railway is the steepest cable-driven railway in the world. The steepest part of the incline is 52 degrees. It was originally constructed to carry coal and oil shale. The mine operation was closed in 1945 after which it was turned into a tourist attraction.


7)  View from the Scenic Railway bottom station ~~~
- The Three Sisters formation is on the left.
- Mt Solitary, the long mountain range, is on the right.
- In the middle is Jamison Valley through which Kedumba River flows.
- Scenic Railway station is at the bottom right hand corner.


8)  We are now on the Federal Pass Walking Track, pass the Scenic Railway bottom station and heading towards Ruined Castle ~~~ encountering this Lyrebird.


9)  550 meters from the Scenic Railway bottom station, we leave the track and follow the fallen aerial cable down the valley called Pitts Amphitheatre.


10)  There is no track, bushbashing all the way in the Pitts Amphitheatre, and steep - just ask Mei Ha  :-)


11)  Freda - she is fleet-footed  :-)


12)  A fern tree. I think it is Cyathea australis (Rough Tree Fern) - correct me if I'm wrong.


13)  The fallen buckets ~~~
They are numerous, one every few meters. And it is amazing the company responsible for the operation of the Bleichert Ropeway didn't clean up all these fallen rubbish. But it does make our trip interesting ... the reason we are here today is to see what was rubbish years ago is now called historical relics!



14)  Mei Ha having fun  :-)


15)  Freda lifting an oil shale rock ... Freda is just showing off as oil shale is quite light.   :-)


16)  Bucket and bucket carrier


17)  Bucket carriers


18)  Head plate with dislodged angle bracket


19)  Haul rope wheel


20)  Bleichert Ropeway artefacts strewn across the ground


21)  Near Causeway Creek, the cable had fallen on top of a rock.


22)  At the top of the rock (previous photo), the cable had etched a groove ... but how did it managed to etched such a groove??? At the time it fell or afterwards, and how???


23)  The tree trunk engulfed the cable !


24)  Close up view of the cable (Photograph courtesy of Nick)


25)  Love the bracken covered ground !


26)  Twisted vine


27)  A tree trunk had fallen across a little stream, and we are making a half-hearted attempt to walk across it. (Photograph courtesy of Meiha)


28)  Still at the same scene as the previous photo ~~~
Freda ... nah, she didn't walk across it  :-)
Actually, none of us dare to cross it this way  :-)


We follow the fallen cable to the Ruined Castle Track, then walk on the track back to the car.

29)  The track passes the entrance of Rennies Tunnel.


30)  Just inside Rennies Tunnel is a gate. The gate is not shut. But it has a sign - "Danger, Do Not Enter". Well, this the green light for Freda to announce she'll organize a trip to crawl through it. Geeze, I didn't know she is such a dare-devil. Oh well, I guess I'll be going, though not really looking forward to it  :-) You can see the height of the tunnel when compared to Nick's body (previous photo) ... we will be crawling on hands and knees all the way !
Freda also said the tunnel will emerge on the other side at a place called Devils Hole ... sounds like jumping out of the frying pan and into the fire !

PS: True to her words, Freda organized a trip to Rennies Tunnel two months late. Photos and a write up of that trip are in my blog:
http://mntviews.blogspot.com.au/2015/08/rennies-tunnel-nsw-blue-mts-australia.html

31)  Now on Federal Pass Walking Track passing through a land slide area ~~~ magnificent cliffs !


32)  On Federal Pass Walking Track looking at cliffs along the Narrow Neck Plateau ~~~
We came from there not too long ago ... we had walked along the base of those cliffs.


33)  Almost at the Scenic Railway bottom station, Freda & Mei Ha having a photographic session ~~~


Afterwards, it is slogging up the steep Furber Steps back to the car. Though Mei Ha wishes the horse can take her up instead ... but, nah, the horse is not interested, so she hops on the Scenic Railway (Photo #6) ... smart woman  :-)

Post Script

This is an interesting trip. And thanks for the company of Nick, Freda and Mei Ha.

Donations are welcome to support the creation of more interesting articles in this blog  :-)

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