2017 October: Looong day walk
to Totem Pole
in Wollemi National Park, NSW, Australia
The Totem Pole
- It is a stand-alone rock/earth pillar,
about 6 meters high.
- Somehow, the pillar is made of material
strongly bound together
and resistant to weather erosion ...
but how, what, why, when ?
- It is also protected somewhat
by a capstone on its top,
but that doesn't explain its continued existence.
- The capstone itself looks like a loose hat.
Why hasn't it been blown away already ?
- Standing on a steep slope,
the Totem Pole is also gravity-defying.
You really have to wonder
why it hasn't toppled over already !
( By the way, there is another tall rock pillar in
Byangee Mountain, Morton National Park, NSW.
Photographs and trip report to
Byangee Mountain are in my blog:
http://mntviews.blogspot.com/2018/11/byangee-mountain-nsw-morton-nat-pk.html ...
Photo #24 is the tall rock pillar. )
Location
- In a remote area of Wollemi National Park,
NSW, Australia
- 16.5 km (as the crow flies)
east-south-east of the small village of Newnes
- 50 meters from the south bank of Wolgan River
- Grid Ref: 576 199
- UTM: 56H 0257639 6319973
- Coordinate: -33.23204 150.3991
Our Party
- 3 mad masochists:
Neilson, Jimmy, Paul (me)
- Plus 3 ladies: Amy, Enna, Rita ...
but they drop out early.
Distance & time - to the Totem Pole
(from Newnes)
One-way:
25 km; 9 hours. Comprised of:
- Road/firetrail: 17 km; 4 hrs 30 mins
- Disused road/track, some sections indistinct:
1.5 km; 40 mins
- Scrub bashing: 6 km; 4 hrs
Return leg:
It is longer, 11 hrs 40 minutes
(Slowed down by Neilson ...
He developed minor injuries on his toes and leg.)
Overall total:
50 km; 21 hrs ... ALL IN ONE DAY !
It is a long walk, but someone has to do it 😊
Question
Is it worthwhile to walk
50 kilometers, 21 hours,
just to see the Totem Pole ?
If you have to ask the question,
you wouldn't understand the answer ! 😊
Maps
- 1:25,000 scaled
• 8931-4S Ben Bullen
• 8931-1S Mount Morgan
- 1:100,000 scaled 8931 Wallerawang
Bellow is an overview of today's walk
on the 1:25,000 scaled map:
- Our GPS tracklog is in red.
- Newnes is at the left end of the tracklog.
- Totem Pole is at the right end of the tracklog.
- Scroll forward to see detailed sections
of the map.
The corresponding satellite overview ...
As you can see, the entire trip is a level-ish walk
along the Wolgan River.
The map around Newnes.
GPS tracklog file & route
Our GPX tracklog file can be downloaded from:
- Newnes to Totem Pole:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B877-h5SCJaSNy0wU19rTXk4YUE/view?usp=sharing
- Totem Pole to Newnes:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B877-h5SCJaSVi1aNmpuX3NGZkk/view?usp=sharing
Map 1: Our tracklog, in red, superimposed
on the above 1:25,000 scaled map.
- 3 blue arrows, left to right:
1 Small carpark at Newnes
by the side of Wolgan Road.
The ford is just to its right (east).
2 Locked gate on Newnes Ruins Road
to prevent cars from going further east.
3 Coke ovens (photo #7)
Map 2:
Continuation to the right of the previous map.
Map 3:
Continuation to the right of the previous map.
- 3 blue arrows, top to bottom:
1 The 3 ladies turn back at this point
near Rocky Creek
2 Rocky Creek (cyan line)
3 Wolgan Trail (black dotted line) doesn't exist
past the south side of Rocky Creek.
The map is wrong.
Our tracklog is on a firetrail
which crosses Wolgan River
at its confluence with Rocky Creek.
Map 4:
Continuation to the right of the previous map.
- 3 blue arrows, left to right:
1 Wolgan Trail (black dotted line)
doesn't exist. The map is wrong.
(There is a firetrail along our red tracklog
on the north side of Wolgan River.)
2 The firetrail re-crosses Wolgan River here.
We won't cross the river.
Instead we continue on an indistinct disused
road/track on the north side of the river.
3 The disused road/track ends here.
Below it are two tracklogs:
• The one on the left is how we continue
to the Totem Pole.
• The one on the right is our return route
along the bank of Wolgan River.
Map 5:
Continuation to the right of the previous map.
- Left tracklog: Our route to the Totem Pole
- Right tracklog:
Return route is along the Wolgan River.
- 4 blue arrows, left to right:
1 Lunch by the side of Annie Rowan Creek
2 Afternoon tea by the side of
Annie Rowan Creek (on the return leg)
3 The Totem Pole
4 Houstons Creek, the very thin cyan line
Summary of our route:
- Start at Newnes, at a small carpark
by the side of Wolgan Rd
near Wolgan River ford crossing.
- Cross the ford.
- Walk on Newnes Ruins Road,
then on firetrail to Rocky Creek.
- Cross Rocky Creek.
- Then almost straight away,
cross Wolgan River to walk on a firetrail
along the north side of the river.
- The firetrail would re-cross Wolgan River
4.2 km later. But instead, we continue
on an indistinct disused road/track.
- After 1.5 km, the disused road/track peters out.
- At that point, bushbash down a steep slope
to cross to the south side of Wolgan River.
- Bushbash to Annie Rowan Creek
by walking on average about 100 meters
up slope away from the river.
- Cross Annie Creek.
- Bushbash to the Totem Pole by walking up slope,
at times 300 meters away from the river.
The return route:
- From Totem Pole to where we need to cross
to the north side of Wolgan River,
we walk along the south bank of the river
(instead of bushbashing up slope
away from the river).
Timeline & Distance
Start at Newnes,
at a small carpark by side of Wolgan Rd,
near Wolgan River ford crossing.
06:15 0.0 km Start walking
06:17 0.15km At junction of an access road
to the ford and Newnes Ruins Rd
06:29 0.15km Resume walking
06:44 1.45km At locked gate
on Newnes Ruins Rd
09:10 12.3 km Near confluence
of Rocky Creek & Wolgan River
Morning tea.
Rita, Amy & Enna decide to turn back to Newnes.
09:31 12.4 km Neilson, Jimmy and I
resume walking
09:43 12.7 km At north bank of Wolgan River
after crossing it (still near the
confluence with Rocky Creek)
I took off my boots while crossing the river ...
Now putting them back on.
09:50 12.8 km Resume walking
10:47 17.0 km Near where the firetrail
re-crosses Wolgan River
Decide whether we should follow the firetrail
to cross Wolgan River;
or stay on the north side
and follow an indistinct disused road/track.
10:50 17.2 km Resume walking ...
Keep to north side of the river
and start on the disused road/track
11:05 18.0 km At where we lost the disused road
Spend some time to find the road.
11:11 18.2 km Found the road ... Resume walking
11:26 18.9 km Disused road/track peters out
around here. We take a rest.
Rest.
11:36 19.0 km Start bushbashing down a steep
slope towards Wolgan River
11:46 19.2 km At the south bank of Wolgan River
after crossing it
then start to walk higher up
the slope, away from the river
12:21 20.4 km Stop for rest
Rest.
12:28 20.5 km Resume walking
13:21 22.2 km At Annie Rowan Creek
Lunch.
And fill up our water bottles.
13:55 22.4 km Resume walking ...
we walk higher up the slope,
away from the river.
14:46 23.9 km Stop for rest
Rest.
14:53 24.0 km Resume walking
15:17 24.6 km At below the Totem Pole,
near south bank of Wolgan River
Leave our backpack here.
15:24 24.7 km Climb up towards the Totem Pole
15:26 24.75km At the Totem Pole
Take photographs.
15:35 24.75km Climb down from the Totem Pole
15:36 24.8 km At below the Totem Pole,
near south bank of Wolgan River;
same spot as at 15:17
Put on fresh battery for my GPS.
And put on our backpacks.
15:42 24.8 km Start on the return trip ...
along south bank of Wolgan River
16:16 25.8 km Stop for rest
Rest.
16:24 25.85km Resume walking
16:55 26.8 km At Annie Rowan Creek
Afternoon tea.
Fill up our water bottles
Analysis:
- From Annie Rowan Creek to below Totem Pole:
13:55 to 15:17 ==> 1 hr 22 min
- Return leg: From below the Totem Pole
back to Annie Rowan Creek:
15:42 to 16:55 ==> 1 hr 13 min
So, the return leg is faster.
It is because we walked along the south bank of
the Wolgan River (from the Totem Pole to here).
By contrast, we walked higher up the slope
on the way to the Totem Pole.
17:19 26.95km Resume walking ...
along south bank of Wolgan River
18:20 28.7 km Stop for rest
Rest.
18:30 28.8 km Resume walking
19:10 29.9 km Stop (still at the south bank
of Wolgan River)
Decide whether we should cross the river now.
19:14 29.95km Decide to cross Wolgan River
now, then climb up a steep slope
19:21 30.05km Stop for rest
Rest.
19:31 30.15km Resume walking
19:35 30.25km At same spot as at 11:26
(Around here, we can walk on the
indistinct disused road/track.)
Analysis:
- From here where the disused road peters out,
to Annie Rowan Creek:
11:26 to 13:21 ==> 1 hr 55 min
- Return leg: From Annie Rowan Creek to here,
where the disused road peters out:
17:19 to 19:35 ==> 2 hr 16 min
So, the first leg is faster.
It is because we walked higher up the slope
from here to Annie Rowan Creek.
By contrast, on the return leg,
we walked along the river bank.
20:09 31.65km At junction of disused road/track
and the firetrail;
Same spot as at 10:47
20:18 32.15km Stop for rest
Rest.
20:27 32.2 km Resume walking
21:03 34.55km Stop for rest
Rest.
21:13 34.65km Resume walking
21:40 36.3 km Just about to start
crossing Wolgan River;
same spot as at 09:43
21:52 36.6 km Stop for rest near confluence of
Rocky Creek & Wolgan River;
same spot as at 09:10
Rest.
22:13 36.8 km Resume walking
23:08 39.7 km Stop for rest
Rest.
23:28 39.8 km Resume walking
00:25 43.15km Stop for rest
Rest.
00:44 43.3 km Resume walking
01:37 46.1 km Stop for rest
Rest.
01:53 46.2 km Resume walking
02:32 47.8 km At locked gate
at the end of Newnes Ruined Road;
same spot as at 06:44
Rest.
02:37 47.8 km Resume walking
03:06 49.1 km At junction of Newnes Ruins Rd
and the access road to the ford;
same spot as at 06:17
03:10 49.25km Back at our cars
=========================================
Total: 20 hrs 55 mins
49.25 km - Distance is from Google Earth
Pictures:
Newnes Camping Ground (the day before)
1) Newnes Camping Ground.
- This is where I sleep for the night ...
in my car, the silverish/greenish car.
2) (Continuation to the right of previous pic.)
- It is Friday night, the place is quite full.
- The gap near the centre of the pic,
between the 2 mountains, is towards east.
Wolgan River flows through there;
and we'll also be walking through there
the next morning.
Today - the 6 of us
3) The 6 of us start out for today's trip:
- Back row, left to right: Neilson, Jimmy, me
- Front row: Rita, Enna, Amy
- Only the 3 guys reach the Totem Pole.
The ladies drop out at Rocky Creek.
Ford at Newnes
At Newnes, there is a small carpark
(for about 4 or 5 cars) at the junction of:
- Wolgan Road
- and an access road crossing Wolgan River
(at a ford) to Newnes Ruins Road
We park our cars at the carpark.
4) The 2 pics below is the ford on the access road
between Wolgan Rd and Newnes Ruins Rd.
- There are stepping stones at the ford
for walkers to cross Wolgan River.
- Yellow dashes:
Road (through the ford) ... covered in water
- If you have a high clearance 4-wheel-drive,
you can drive through the access road
to cross Wolgan River at the ford.
At the time of writing,
the access road is badly corroded and rutted.
5) Cute drawings on the stepping stones.
6) Wolgan River.
- Photograph taken from one of the
stepping stones in the middle of the ford.
Locked gate
After the ford, the access road meets up with
Newnes Ruins Road.
From this junction, we walk east-ish for 1.3 km
to a locked gate. So, if we have a 4-wheel-drive,
we could have driven all the way to the gate.
After the locked gate, the Newnes Ruins Road
becomes a firetrail.
On the map, it is called Ruins Walking Track.
The Ruins Walking Track lasts for about 1 km,
after which it is called Wolgan Trail.
In this trip report, I'll call the road
east of the locked gate, simply as the firetrail.
Ruins of Newnes shale oil processing works
On the firetrail (Ruins Walking Track),
we pass a line of coke ovens.
They are the ruins of Newnes shale oil
processing works in the early days
of Australian history.
7) The 3 pics below are along the same line of
coke ovens.
8) One of the coke ovens.
9) More ruins.
10) Former shale mine entrance.
Along south side of Wolgan River
The firetrail after the locked gate goes
along the south side of Wolgan River,
all the way to Rocky Creek and beyond.
11) On the firetrail.
- Left to right: Neilson, Enna, Jimmy, Rita, Amy
12) This tree trunk makes a Z bend.
- Despite its burnt out look, it is actually alive !
13) Looking down at Wolgan River.
14) Crossing an unnamed tributary
of Wolgan River.
- Jimmy, Amy
15) Typical firetrail that we walk on.
- Left to right: Rita, Jimmy, Amy
16) A dilapidated shed along the way.
17) Cliffs lining both banks of the Wolgan River.
18) Cliffs lining both banks of the Wolgan River.
Near Rocky Creek
Now approaching the confluence of
Wolgan River & Rock Creek ...
19) Rita, Amy, Enna.
- They decide to return to Newnes ...
not a surprise, as the pace required for
the 50-km one day trip is too gruelling
for most people, except the very fit
and foolhardy too.
That left the 3 of us,
Neilson, Jimmy and I,
to continue to Totem Pole.
20) This fire place is about 100 meters
further down the firetrail
from where the previous pic was taken.
It would be a good camping site.
- And we are almost at the edge of Rocky Creek,
but haven't crossed it yet.
Crossing Rocky Creek
21) Now crossing Rocky Creek.
- Yellow arrows:
The way we cross Rocky Creek,
then proceed to Wolgan River.
- Red dashes:
The firetrail is actually along the creek bed !
(On the return trip, we we'll be here
around 9:45pm, totally in the dark.
We'll just walk through the water,
along the red dashes.)
Crossing Wolgan River from south to north
Soon after crossing Rocky Creek ...
22) We now cross Wolgan River
from its south bank to its north bank.
- Yellow arrow (near top-left corner):
Firetrail on the north side of Wolgan River ...
We'll walk on there.
- I take off my boots when crossing the river.
But ...
... But on the return leg,
I'll be too tired to bother about wet feet,
and will just cross Wolgan River with boots on.
Then continue along the wet creek bed
of Rocky Creek ... see photo #21.
Water depth in both the Wolgan River crossing
and along Rocky Creek is up to a bit
above the knees.
Along north side of Wolgan River
23) The firetrail is also in good condition
on the north side of the Wolgan River.
The firetrail goes on for 4.2 km.
After which it will cross the Wolgan River again
back to its south side.
Then there maybe, or supposed to be,
an indistinct(?) foot track all the way
to Annie Rowan Creek.
However, after 4.2 km, we won't cross the Wolgan.
Instead, we keep on its north side
and walk on an indistinct disused road/track.
It peters out about 1.5 km later.
At that point we bushbash down a steep slope
to the Wolgan River and cross to its south side.
24) Lace Monitors, Varanus varius.
- On two separate occasions,
we encounter 2 Lace Monitors.
They were sun bathing along the firetrail.
But when we approach them,
they quickly scamper up the trees.
25) Quite a few of these rings spaced regularly
along the firetrail.
- Chris Turner informed me the rings were
for animal detection.
They were filled with fine sand,
and a bait was placed in or very nearby.
They were checked once a day
when in operation.)
Crossing Wolgan River from north to south
As mentioned earlier ...
The firetrail becomes an indistinct disused
road/track which peters out 1.5 km later.
At that point, we bushbash down a steep slope
and cross the Wolgan River ...
See the pic below.
26) Here, we cross the Wolgan River.
Bushbash to Annie Rowan Creek
After crossing Wolgan River ...
27) ... It is bushbash to Annie Rowan Creek.
- The scrubs are not too dense,
but they are prickly with thorns.
You are well advised to wear a pair of gloves.
On average, we keep to about 100 meters
from the bank of Wolgan River.
We didn't notice any foot track.
If there is a foot track, it is probably indistinct,
and probably further up the slope from the river ...
Just guessing.
Annie Rowan Creek
28) Lunch at Annie Rowan Creek ...
22 km, 7 hrs after we started at Newnes.
- There is still 2.5 km to the Totem Pole.
- Jimmy is filling up his water bottle.
29) Annie Rowan Creek.
- Upper pic: Looking up stream
- Lower pic: Down stream
Bushbash to The Totem Pole
After Annie Rowan Creek, it is bushbashing
to The Totem Pole. At times we are up to
300 meters from the Wolgan River.
It is not pleasant going ...
- tougher terrain
- denser scrubs
- steeper slope
than the pre Annie Rowan Creek section.
So if you are at this part of the trip,
either go even higher up the slope,
or simply walk along the bank of Wolgan River
as we'll do on the return leg.
30) Crossing an unnamed dry tributary
of Wolgan River.
- Most of the time, the bush is much denser
than here.
The Totem Pole
If you approach the Totem Pole too high up
the slope, you may not be able to see it.
We drop down to the Wogan River level
just prior to where the Totem Pole should be,
and ...
31) ... and lo and behold,
here it is !
WOW !
What a feeling ...
after 9 hours and 25 kilometers !
32) We'll climb up to the Totem Pole later ...
First, a photo session !
- Left to right: Jimmy, Nielson, me
33) Now climbing up to the Totem Pole.
- As you can see from the pic,
the slope to the Totem Pole is very steep ...
One step forward, two steps sliding back 😊
- Just as well the Totem Pole is
not easily accessible.
Else all the climbing on the steep slope
by visitors would cause enough soil erosion
to soon send it tumbling down
to the Wolgan River below.
34) Neilson has climbed up to near the base of the Totem Pole. From the pic, you can see that the pole is resting on a steep slope.
35) I am at the Totem Pole. Isn't it a wonderful sculpture by nature !
Somehow, the pillar is made of material strongly bound together and resistant to weather erosion ... but how what why and when? It is also protected somewhat by a capstone on its top, but that doesn't explain its continued existence. Standing on a steep slope, it is also gravity-defying. You really have to wonder why it hasn't toppled over already !
36) Jimmy at the base of the Totem Pole
37) The column looks rickety built with a conglomerate of earth and rock. It looks as if it is going to collapse at anytime !
You just have to wonder what binds the earth and rocks together in the column, while the surrounding hillside gradually eroded away ?
38) The capstone - it plays a part in protecting the Totem Pole from being eroded.
- Lower pic: The mountain in the background is Mt Morgan.
Sadly we can't rest our tired legs for too long. It'll be dark soon and have 25 more kilometers to return to the car.
Along south bank of Wolgan River
back to Annie Rowan Creek
On the return leg, instead of retracing our steps by going up the slope, we walk along the river bank instead. Sometimes we are slowed by boulders strewn across the bank. But overall, our progress is faster.
Here are the stats:
- From Annie Rowan Creek to below the Totem Pole: 13:55 to 15:17 ==> 1 hr 22 min
- Return leg: From below the Totem Pole back to Annie Rowan Creek: 15:42 to 16:55 ==> 1 hr 13 min
So, it is faster to walk along the river bank than walking higher up the slope as we did on the way to the Totem Pole.
The other alternative is to walk even higher up the slope (further away from the river). But I don't know whether it will be faster.
39) Walking along the southern bank of Wolgan River ~~~
- Upper pic: Looking up stream
- Lower pic: Looking down stream
40) A twisted trunk.
Annie Rowan Creek
41) We are back at Annie Rowan Creek
and taking a rest.
- Jimmy is smiling.
- Time now is 5:11pm.
If he knows that he won't be back to the car
10 hours later, not until 3:10am the next day,
what is the bet he won't be smiling 😊
From Annie Rowan Creek to the disused road
on the north side of Wolgan river,
we also keep walking along the river bank.
Again, on occasions, we are slowed
by boulders strewn across our path.
Anaylsing the times:
- The forward leg:
From where the disused road peters out
(on the north side of Wolgan river)
to Annie Rowan Creek:
11:26 to 13:21 ==> 1 hr 55 min
( You'll recall ...
At where the disused road peters out,
we crossed to the south side of Wolgan River
and walked higher up along the slope. )
- Return leg:
From Annie Rowan Creek,
along Wolgan River bank,
back to where the disused road peters out:
17:19 to 19:35 ==> 2 hr 16 min
So, along this section, it is faster
to walk higher up the slope
on the south side of Wolgan River
(than along the river bank).
On firetrail back to the car
We are fortunate ...
Just when the sun sets, we are back
at the indistinct disused road/track
where the walking is much easier.
But still, we have another 19 km to cover.
And unfortunately, Neilson developed
minor injuries on his toes and leg.
So we walk a bit slower and take more rests.
By the time we are back to the car, it is 3:10 am ...
all up, a 21-hour day !
Sunrise & Sunset
For the record:
- 5:25 am First light
- 5:55 am Sunrise
- 7:25 pm Sunset
- 7:55 pm Last light
Water consumption
I drank about 7.5 litres of water for the trip !
4.5 litres were carried in the backpack
at the start of the trip,
then top up at Annie Rowan Creek.
Remarks
1)
Is it worth all the effort to walk
50 kilometers to see the Totem Pole?
If you have to ask the question,
you wouldn't understand the answer ! 😊
2)
And it makes for a memorable trip, and
an interesting dinner party conversation point
for the rest of our lives ...
"How we walked 21 hours to see a lone pillar" 😊
3)
The Totem Pole is an example of a Hoodoo ...
Refer to this link in Wiki:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hoodoo_(geology)
New Zealand's Putangirua Pinnacles
Four months later in February 2018,
I'll go to see the Putangirua Pinnacles,
an entire hillside of hoodoos, in the
Wellington Region of New Zealand North Island.
It is an amazing outlandish place,
like from an alien world. Photographs
and a detailed trip report are in my blog:
http://mntviews.blogspot.com.au/2018/02/putangirua-pinnacles-new-zealand-north.html
It is much easier to see the hoodoos there ...
less than an hour of walk,
compare to the ages of walk
to reach the Totem Pole.
Thank you
Many thanks to Angela Barton and Peter Medbury
for their invaluable advice on the route
to the Totem Pole.
( By the way, in an earlier overnight
backpacking trip, Angela reached the Totem Pole
from Newnes in 8 hours.
The route she took was the same as ours ...
in fact, we copied her route.
Geez ! She was fast ! )
Great page full off detailed information. Thank you for taking the time to put it together and post.
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